Smuggler's Cove

What a beautiful surprise this protected cove on the sunshine coast turned out to be...

       
                                              The narrow opening to Smugglers Cove

After leaving Pender Harbour on the August long weekend and heading south we found the almost hidden entrance to Smuggler's Cove Marine Park and entered at fairly high tide. It is best to enter at low tide though as the cove is littered with rocks and it is easier to spot them. We took our time, watching carefully on all sides, and Treazure's shallow draft proved helpful.

The opening to the cove is narrow, aproximately 40 ft across but widens dramatically once inside to reveal a beautiful lagoon filled with little islets and views across to Thormanby Island.

   

                                            Looking west to the entrance and open sea

Twenty boats or so filled the nooks and crannys of this lovely cove but we managed to find an anchorage well into Smugglers on the west side. We set anchor and stern tied to shore. There was a pretty but shallow cove behind us, little islets around us, and starboard view out to the entrance which promised a beautiful sunset on the sea. We watched a family of Kingfishers, parents and four young ones flying from tree to tree calling noisily to each other all the while. We enjoyed  their entertaining swooping and chattering with a cold frosty beer in hand.

The water was incredibly warm and we just had to get wet. Even Daisy and LouLou ( with lifejacket on) had swimming lessons. People from other boats would swim or kayak by with big smiles of pleasure on their faces, obviously enjoying the surroundings as much as we were.

Laura jumping off the marker

                                  Another view of the entrance with kayakers

It was so peaceful and beautiful and protected, I fell in love with Smugglers Cove immediately.

                                                Northeast view from Treazure

I cannot wait to go back next summer.

There is camping in this park but apparently a fair ways back into the forest. A trail goes out to the Highway and circles the cove as well. Boardwalks were built to protect the interior wetland enviroment that has a beaverdam complete with furry flat tail residents.

Stern ties are a must in Smugglers and there are lots of rings embedded into rocks and shoreline as well as trees to tie onto.

A lagoon behind us, very shallow but also very warm.

                         John towing Daisy back from shore

This place is popular and rightly so - it is gorgeous, so get there before lunch and you will be well rewarded.


Here is a secret...there are several anchorages port side as you enter the cove and one in particular has Treazure's name for next summer, these spots have commanding views of the lagoon and spectacular views out over Smuggler's shoreline to the ocean as well.

                                 Anchor in the space between left and right sailboats for a fabulous view out into the sound as well as in the harbour, but sshh don't tell anyone else...

     

             Looking west at a most beautiful sunset

But anywhere in Smugglers Cove is really beautiful and is now one of my favorite places on the coast.

Kalena

Six Nets

    Pender Harbour

Kalena

Marina's - A Dying Business?

          While cruising this summer I couldn't help but notice the number of boats that chose to anchor instead of tieing up at a marina for the night.

 I know many boaters love the peace and solitude of anchoring and with great reason, but it seemed that this year more than ever coves and bays up and down the coast were full of boats on the hook.  Could this be a reflection of the poor economy we wondered, people trying to save money on moorage fees. After all, the bigger the boat the larger the cost to spend the night.

 And not only that, when one is at the dock it's easy to spend money - lunch or dinner at the restaurant, a drink at the pub, ice cream for the kids, books, souvenirs etc. If you are anchored in a quiet cove then you have to make do with what you have on board and unless you're attached to a mooring ball in a park it is Free. And free is great!

But there is a problem with too much free.

I've done a little research and I was shocked to discover how many Marinas on the coast are for sale. I guess you could make the point that most properties, like boats, are for sale if the price offered is right. But, and here's the big but, if boat owners are not supporting a marina's revenue by staying there and buying their products, then the marina owners have to look
at either closing, or selling, or taking revenue from another part of the business - their very valuable waterfront land.

One has only to look at the sadly short list of private campgrounds in the Okanagan as an example. When we first started going to Westbank twenty years ago there were about 10 campgrounds on the lake, now there is only one. The campers who don't get into that one are out of luck!

And though some of these marinas will sell to someone who will enjoy the lifestyle and keep the docks open, maybe some will just close the marina down, the land will be bought by a wealthy individual who wants the view, or to a development company who will sell it off piecemeal, or perhaps a private yacht club who will keep it for members only.


The last alternatives are not good ones for boaters in the long term. Where are you going to fill up with the essentials like water and gas when you're on summer holidays cruising the gulf islands, or sunshine coast, or desolation or the broughtons? It is hard enough to get water now without losing any of the following marinas.

Here is the list of Marinas that are for sale, some current and some this last summer:

Telegraph Harbour Marina  Thetis Island $ 2.3 million (rumours of a private yacht club, members only, are interested)    I love this marina, it is one of the best, clean, dog friendly,     well kept, great ice cream and little Wylie Corgi dog. Sure hope this one stays open!

Port Browning  Pender Island $ 5.9 million

Fulford Harbour $ 2.5 million - almost sold recently but deal did not go thru because of storm damage repairs that were delayed.

Montague Harbour Marina  $3 million - owners are ready for a change after 8 years.

Garden Bay Hotel Pub Marina   Pender Harbour  $2.6 million

Desolation Sound Resort   $2.9 million

Lagoon Cove Marina    Broughtons  $2.6 million

Farewell Harbour    Broughtons   $2.8 million

So if we think long term, as in years down the road, or are planning an extended boating trip soon, at some point we will need the services of these businesses. Fuel. Water. Ice. Supplies. Mechanical/ Parts. Phone/Internet. A night off from cooking or a safe harbour in a storm. Lets give Marinas our support financially (at least some of the time) and with a big thanks, for the things we sometimes forget they provide.

Kalena

But not Painted Boat Marina who take boater's money and give nothing - not even a garbage can for trash!!