Smuggler's Cove

What a beautiful surprise this protected cove on the sunshine coast turned out to be...

       
                                              The narrow opening to Smugglers Cove

After leaving Pender Harbour on the August long weekend and heading south we found the almost hidden entrance to Smuggler's Cove Marine Park and entered at fairly high tide. It is best to enter at low tide though as the cove is littered with rocks and it is easier to spot them. We took our time, watching carefully on all sides, and Treazure's shallow draft proved helpful.

The opening to the cove is narrow, aproximately 40 ft across but widens dramatically once inside to reveal a beautiful lagoon filled with little islets and views across to Thormanby Island.

   

                                            Looking west to the entrance and open sea

Twenty boats or so filled the nooks and crannys of this lovely cove but we managed to find an anchorage well into Smugglers on the west side. We set anchor and stern tied to shore. There was a pretty but shallow cove behind us, little islets around us, and starboard view out to the entrance which promised a beautiful sunset on the sea. We watched a family of Kingfishers, parents and four young ones flying from tree to tree calling noisily to each other all the while. We enjoyed  their entertaining swooping and chattering with a cold frosty beer in hand.

The water was incredibly warm and we just had to get wet. Even Daisy and LouLou ( with lifejacket on) had swimming lessons. People from other boats would swim or kayak by with big smiles of pleasure on their faces, obviously enjoying the surroundings as much as we were.

Laura jumping off the marker

                                  Another view of the entrance with kayakers

It was so peaceful and beautiful and protected, I fell in love with Smugglers Cove immediately.

                                                Northeast view from Treazure

I cannot wait to go back next summer.

There is camping in this park but apparently a fair ways back into the forest. A trail goes out to the Highway and circles the cove as well. Boardwalks were built to protect the interior wetland enviroment that has a beaverdam complete with furry flat tail residents.

Stern ties are a must in Smugglers and there are lots of rings embedded into rocks and shoreline as well as trees to tie onto.

A lagoon behind us, very shallow but also very warm.

                         John towing Daisy back from shore

This place is popular and rightly so - it is gorgeous, so get there before lunch and you will be well rewarded.


Here is a secret...there are several anchorages port side as you enter the cove and one in particular has Treazure's name for next summer, these spots have commanding views of the lagoon and spectacular views out over Smuggler's shoreline to the ocean as well.

                                 Anchor in the space between left and right sailboats for a fabulous view out into the sound as well as in the harbour, but sshh don't tell anyone else...

     

             Looking west at a most beautiful sunset

But anywhere in Smugglers Cove is really beautiful and is now one of my favorite places on the coast.

Kalena

Six Nets

    Pender Harbour

Kalena

Marina's - A Dying Business?

          While cruising this summer I couldn't help but notice the number of boats that chose to anchor instead of tieing up at a marina for the night.

 I know many boaters love the peace and solitude of anchoring but it seemed that this year more than ever coves and bays up and down the coast were full of boats on the hook.  Could this be a reflection of the poor economy we wondered, people trying to save money on moorage fees. After all the bigger the boat the larger the cost to spend the night. And not only that, when one is at the dock its easy to spend money - lunch or dinner at the restaurant, a drink at the pub, ice creams for the kids, books, souvenirs etc. If you are in a quiet cove then you have to make do with what you have on board and unless you're attached to a mooring ball in a park it is Free. And free is great!

But there is a problem with too much free.

I've done a little research and I was shocked to discover how many Marinas on the coast are for sale. I guess you could make the point that most properties, like boats, are for sale if the price offered is right. But, and here's the big but, if boat owners are not supporting a marina's revenue by staying there and buying their products, then the marina owners have to look at taking revenue from another part of the business and that is their very valuable waterfront land. And though some of these marinas will sell to someone who will enjoy the lifestyle and keep the docks open, maybe some will just close down and be bought by a wealthy individual who wants the view or a development company who will sell it off piecemeal  or perhaps a private yacht club who will keep it for members only.

And the last alternatives are not good ones for boaters in the long term. Where are you going to fill up with the essentials like water and gas when you're on summer holidays cruising the gulf islands, or sunshine coast, or desolation or the broughtons? It is hard enough to get water now without losing any of the following marinas.

Here is the list of Marinas that are for sale, some current and some this last summer:

Telegraph Harbour Marina  Thetis Island $ 2.3 million (rumours of a private yacht club, members only, are interested)    I love this marina, it is one of the best, friendly,well kept, great ice cream and little Wylie Corgi dog. Sure hope this one stays open!

Port Browning  Pender Island $ 5.9 million

Fulford Harbour $ 2.5 million - almost sold recently but deal did not go thru because of storm damage repairs that were delayed.

Montague Harbour Marina  $3 million - owners are ready for a change after 8 years.

Garden Bay Hotel Pub Marina   Pender Harbour  $2.6 million

Desolation Sound Resort   $2.9 million

Lagoon Cove Marina    Broughtons  $2.6 million

Farewell Harbour    Broughtons   $2.8 million

So if we think long term and we are planning an extended boating trip, at some point we will need the services of these businesses. Fuel. Water. Supplies. A night off from cooking, a safe harbour in a storm. Lets give Marinas our support financially (at least some of the time), and with a big thanks for the things we sometimes forget they provide.

Kalena

But not Painted Boat Marina who take boater's money and give nothing - not even a garbage can for trash!!

Yachts, Yams, and Turkey - Thanksgiving at Sucia

We had a wonderful Thanksgiving weekend on Sucia.


We left Saturday morning to join George and Lorna and Dave and Barb in Fossil Bay who had left the day before. It was quite the trip over I have to say, the winds were high, supposed to die down at 11am but did not. After waiting awhile we decided to head out anyway. What is normally a 35 minute run took 2 hours. Not fun! But we made it and got dock space in Fossil which was nice for a change. George thought we wouldn't cross but Dave knew we would. They reported huge rollers in the straight that morning, boats who left but came back in as it was just too rough.


We had a great afternoon sitting around the picnic table on the dock and met another nice couple who were joining us for dinner that night, Al and Rhoda on Ubique. George and Lorna had cooked a turkey the day before and we had a fabulous dinner on their boat complete with all the trimmings. Thank you so much G&L, it was super!!

Al and Rhoda are members of the Point Roberts Yacht Club some of whose members were on Sucia for their Thanksgiving/ season windup dinner, they were over at the other dock in Fossil and we were planning to meet them the next day.


Our firepit at the top of out dock which we put to good use, with lots of firewood around to burn. Behind the picnic table is the other dock in Fossil Bay which PRYC was docked.
The campsites on Sucia are incredbly scenic...

A view of beautiful Fox bay. A narrow isthmus separates Fossil and Fox Bays. There are beautiful walks and views in every directions.

Here we are heading down the winding trail to meet with the gang at PRYC. Quite a hike with the wheelbarrow full of food and supplies, liquid and otherwise...

A view out the window at the Cabana, notice there are no boats moored - I think this must be a first for the season.

Our potluck dinner in the cabana. We had another Turkey, ham, George's Turkey casserole, salads, appetizers. Just fantastic! Lots of interesting conversation too.

Campfire time, jokes and songs.

What a great group of people, looks like we may have to join this Yacht Club.

We had a roaring fire, actually the first of the season because of the campfire ban.

The next morning most boats were getting ready to leave fairly early.

Invictus, Playtime, and Ubique headed out before 10, but we decided to take one last walk on the island as you never know when you'll get a chance to go back.

Treazure waiting for us, the last to head out, looks like sunset but was actually 11 am.

Thanks to all. We really enjoyed meeting you and all your interesting stories. Good Luck to Kailani who are sailing to Mexico and then on to Bermuda and finally crossing over to the Mediteranean. They have promised to keep us all informed of their adventure. It was a great weekend and I am truly thankful.

Kalena

More Thoughts and Destinations to Come...

There is a dichotomy in boating that always pulls me in two directions.

The lure of the open sea, the awe and inspiration of nature, the peace and solitude of a cove all to yourself. This beauty of a living canvas around you that is filled with sunlight dancing on waves, an ever changing formation of clouds, the smudge of rain falling on the distant horizon, at night a thousand slivers of moonlight creating a pathway on the sea, a canopy of a million diamonds above you and sometimes if you're really lucky reflected and spread out like a carpet around your boat. All this restores my soul, grounds me, and calms me like nothing in a modern world can. This time is precious time.

But...

An invitation to join another boat or a group heading somewhere fun pulls in another direction. While you give up a little of the freedom you get just as much of something different in return. Laughter and jokes, opinions, sharing of what you have with you, togetherness, the comradery of braving a rough crossing or something new discovered. The mutual satisfaction of the return journey with stories to talk about later. And at other times, pulling into the protected embrace of a harbour or marina, tying up at the dock and meeting new people. This time is precious time too.


September seemed to fly by. We spent this last month at the dock, crabbing and partying and it was fun! Catching up with dock friends, M dock is very social now, finding out who's been where, who's fixed what, who's buying which, this is an interesting and even essential part of the boating season.

The changeover to Fall is almost complete. We will head out again on the water, hopefully this weekend with everyone to Sucia Island. I still have lots of thoughts and destinations to share. We went to some extremely beautiful places this summer, places that were even better than I'd hoped they would be. The photos turned out well and it has taken alot of time to sort and edit them to do these places justice but I am almost ready to go. I also have some opinions on things we've seen this summer that may interest you or antagonize.

I hope you will stay tuned.

Kalena

Point Roberts Marina Seafood and Music Festival 2009

Turned out to be a fabulous success...





The turnout was huge, the weather for the most part co-operated with lots of sunshine ( a small shower late afternoon had people heading for cover but it didn't last for too long.)

M Dock partyers enjoying themselves

View from the Marina Club upstairs...










Lots of people showed up, dogs were welcome too.

The food courts...

Daddy Roots was great, very caribbean, great reggae. He is from one of our favorite places on earth - Anguilla. We talked alittle about the changes there. Cool Guy!!

John and Daddy Roots.






Jackie selling tickets for food. The line up for the food and beer and wine was long,
but well worth the wait.

South Beach Restaurant contributed a great Thai Seafood Soup. Just enough zing!

There was great salmon platters, pulled pork sandwiches, hot dogs, delicious clam chowder. Lots to choose ...

Taunya at the entrance to the wine dock












Leeanne helping at the food ticket line.












Perhaps Roberto is contemplating a career change?

(he was great emceeing the event by the way)













Fabulous spicy crab in hoisin sauce, was superb!

























The people at the food tents worked non-stop all afternoon offering up delicious food with a great sense of humour and a big smile.

The Shrimp and Prawn cocktail was first class...


















A great crowd of people enjoying the atmosphere and music.

The Beer and Wine garden is at the rear on the dock.











A big thank you to the owners and staff at the Marina, they put alot of effort into this event and it really showed.

We are all looking forward to next year...


Thank you Point Roberts Marina!


Kalena

Point Roberts Marina

Point Roberts Marina September 2009 Update...

Still so glad we chose it...

Big Marina Party September 19th, with good food including a salmon bbq, several kinds of musical entertainment including blues bands,reggae, country and more. This should be alot of fun ! Benefits go to the Pt Roberts Food Bank, Senior Center, Volunteer Fire Dept.

The great facilities remain the same.

http://www.pointrobertsmarina.com/

The Marina Club is wonderful, I held John's 5oth birthday party there last year with great help from the staff Jackie, Taunya, Leanne, and Roberto, all our guests enjoyed the beautiful views over the water.

The Marina still has the cleanest bathrooms, good garbage pickup, safe and well maintained docks, reasonable rules and regulations, good water and electricity available at all times during boating season. Water is turned off during the winter, which is not a problem as it is readily available from the washrooms. Good dog walking, blackberry picking, beach walking, bike riding.

Changes have happened, mostly on the positive side. Service at the gas dock is better, with ice, beer, and wine now available which is handy if you have forgotten what you have on board and are heading out, and Leanne knows what she is doing and is always helpful and friendly. The pumpout works better this year as well.

Provisioning is easy with convenient shopping at the International Marketplace, a short walk away, excellent prices on groceries, beer and wine.

This is still the closest away point in BC and Washinton to the Gulf Islands and San Juans.

Aproximately 40 minutes closer than Crescent Beach Marina without having to worry about tides and sand bars and dredging concerns. For those moored in the Fraser River, you do not have to deal with all the heavy and active waterway traffic, plus tides, mud, half hour to one hour commute to the ocean to find out that at Sand Heads it is way too rough to head out into the Straight, and if the tide has turned and you are a sailboat it is a tough slog back upriver.

Ben and his staff at WestWinds Marine have full service marine repairs and supplies. We have found them to be extremely helpful and reasonable.

We still really enjoy Point Robert Marina, M Dock (Party Dock), and getting fast to whatever island we want to go to next.

Kalena

Point Roberts Marina- First written in May 2008

Treazure is moored at Point Roberts Marina USA. Moorage space and slip availability is one of the biggest concerns on the west coast. Crescent Beach Marina (our first choice) has had a two year wait for years, as do all Vancouver area marinas. After the initial excitement of purchasing Treazure we were in a bit of a quandry. Finally we had our boat but nowhere to put her. After much inquiry, we heard about Point Roberts Marina, checked it out before delivery and we were happy with what we saw. It has continued to be a great choice with great service and facilities!

* Note : Point Roberts currently has slip availability for 3o ft. * Call the office at (360) 945-2255 for information.



The Marina's close proximity to the Gulf Islands and San Juans is a huge benefit. It is popular with sailboats for precisely that reason. On a flat calm day our cruiser can be at the entrance to Active Pass in 35 minutes, Montague Harbour in 45 minutes, peaceful Patos Island under 20 minutes, and Suchia Island under 30 minutes. Fantastic!



Wide concrete docks, the most spotlessly clean bathrooms and showers ever, laundry, friendly dockmates, good dog walking for Daisy, and excellent storm protection make me happy.

Broadband Express makes Laura happy.

The fuel dock (gas, diesel, propane) which sells fishing licences, bait, beer, ice, and pop, the pump out station, a full service repair and chandlery with haulout, great fish and chips at the Dockside Cafe all make John happy.

Taunya and Jackie at the marina office are super friendly and helpful.
Last year they gave us good advice about the different docks and let us choose our slip.

Ben and Sheila Lazarus just purchased Westwind Marine Services last fall and are combining the full service chandlery with their previous marine canvas business. Ben is very helpful, and has patiently answered all our questions. Good luck to them both.

The Marina Club has great facilities as well as reciprocals at numerous other docks (last count 70) - more about that later.

The Canadian and US border crossing can add alittle wait time to your trip. Also, anchoring or docking in Canadian waters takes some planning. A Nexus Pass will alleviate much of the rigmarole. The conveniences and facilities of the marina far outweigh this.

Point Roberts is a great marina with great services. Don't hesitate to check it out.

Kalena

Crab Fest at the Dock 2009

We decided to do a Crab Fest again at the dock, and it was even better than ever...

The sea's bounty awaits !

Delicious








Huge crab pot just starting to boil, we had corn boiling in the smaller pot.

John manning the pot...

We brought our old Coleman camp stove at the last minute and surprisingly it brought all the pots to a quicker boil than the smaller bottle propane burners.

We went out a day or two before to catch crab, our dockmates went out Saturday morning, so we had lots to share.

George, John, and Darcy preparing the catch for the pot


The ladies call it the massacre, but we're all still willing to eat them.

They are tough little crabs, wouldn't go down without a fight. The guys ended up with several large cuts, pinched toes and fingers, George had a split thumb nail.

Darcy helping to clean Crabs

Dungeness crab - must be males, must be at least 6 1/4 inches across.













Kathy, Laura, Wendell









John, George, John, and Yvonne
















Laura, Kathy, Bill, Betty














John's Dad Bill

























Lena, Anna, Reg

Ted, Lorna, Barb, Zack, and Lena

Seconds anyone?

Dave and Ted

Not too much room on the dock but nobody fell in thankfully

How can you beat a day on the docks, eating fresh as you can get local corn on the cob, drawn butter, homemade Coleslaw with raisins, cranberries, and sunflower seeds, Pasta salad, Bratwurst and of course lot and lots of Dungeness Crab.

Some of us enjoyed the Barefoot Pinot Grigio, others hearty Australian Shiraz, and others several samplings of beer, Budweiser being the cold one of choice.

We finished with cream puffs and a chocolate unbirthday cake.

It was wonderful, a great group of people all willing to share and help and have fun.
We all had a great time!

We vow next year will be even bigger and better!

Kalena

Boat Buddies

Daisy and LouLou truly love each other.... now

Daisy and LouLou while underway, cuddling on Mom's lap

LouLou was one year old at the end of July, Daisy is six years old. While at anchor they get dinghied several times a day to shore, at least, where they both love to find sticks and shells and trails to explore. LouLou watches Daisy at all times who in turn keeps an eagle eye on her and will happily go and round her up if she strays too far away.

Kalena

Party Pug

Don't be fooled by this little guy...

He is a sweetheart, but.....

We met him on the breakwater at Poet's Cove. Pug Mom had left for the weekend, her precious Hudson was entrusted to Dad for the very first time. ( Names are secret for obvious reasons.) Pug Dad had his hands full. He was ernest in his concern for naughty Hudson, but with a party in full blast on the dock the inexperienced Pug Dad was a little preoccupied. Hudson was quite happy to run around the spacious dock at the breakwater at Poet's Cove Marina on Pender Island.

Hudson's adventuresome day started with exercise, some ball throwing off the dock, Dad didn't quite realize that Pugs can't get their mouths around a tennis ball, especially while swimming. Hudson went quite far into the very busy channel between the breakwater dock and the main/gas dock, chasing after that elusive ball. Dad almost had to jump in after him but Hudson somehow made his way back after weaving his way thru all the passing boats. A Miracle!


Later that afternoon we heard ' OMG I am SOO SORRY' as Pug Dad rushed over to a neighbouring boat to clean up Hudson's poop on their boat - he had not pooped on the deck, nor the cabin, but on the owner's bed.

Bad Dog! Very Bad Dog! Glad to say the boat owners were very gracious!


That evening Party Pug helped himself to half a glass of my Baileys which I had left beside my chair, and then tripped up a beer or two on the dock which he quite happily licked up.
Drunken Dog...

Next thing I heard some time later while getting ready for bed was a thrashing, splashing around in the water just off the breakwater dock, the party had moved a little down the dock at that point.. 'Help, there is someone in the water' I called, moving quickly onto the dock. Everyone came running, Pug Dad in the lead... 'Hudson Hudson'!, and sure enough it was him. Unceremoniously he reached down and grabbed him and pulled him by the collar onto the dock. Do you need a towel I asked but no, Pug Dad said he had enough. I am sure at that point he had
definitely had enough.

The next morning...

Water helps, Hudson

This is Hudson later the next day, not too worse for wear.













Mercifully Pug Mom will never know. Unless she reads this....

Kalena

Out To Sea

It is Monday August 17th, we made it out of the office. I am out on the ocean! It has been a glorious few days so far, we left Friday feeling frazzled, but we are both totally different people now.

First night was spent at James Bay Prevost, just a lovely spot, the views up Trincomali are wonderful, as is the orchard on the west side of the bay. Apples are just about ready to pick, deer visit, sample the fruit and grass, and bed down under the trees. This seems to be a favorite camping spot with kayakers.

Just a few more weeks...

Swells sent us on our way Saturday morning, though John was a little reluctant to leave as he was enjoying the nude yoga performed by one of the kayakers that were 'loosening up' on the beach. Nevertheless, we headed down the east side of Prevost Island with the intention of docking at Pt Browning on Pender. Unfortunately it was full until Wednesday, lots of sailboats in the sound, must be a regatta going on.

We went thru the Cut to Poet's Cove. The cut (Pender Canal) separates north and south Pender Islands, it is very pretty but shallow and narrow, we radio'd to let any boats coming in the

opposite direction that we were there, so no problems.

Poet's Cove is beautiful as always, spent one night on the breakwater, it was busy even out there, we had a fun night as everyone there was in party mode

Always fun to meet new people especially ones that like a good time.

We spent a second night at the dock, it was alot quieter but we needed power and water as well as showers.

Walking on the beach at Poet's Cove...

John and I met the owners of another Treasure, very nice people who thought we might be the previous owners of theirs. We assured them that we were not. They are new to boating and still abit nervous, they are going to check out this site for some ideas on where to go.

'Lucky to be in love with my best friend, lucky to have been where I have been'
is playing on the radio right now. It seems just perfect...

Kalena

Roche Harbor

Boat Oggling...

In Roche Harbor Marina, San Juan Island was our plan. We left on Friday to meet with Dave and Barb on Invictus, who had left the previous Wednesday to anchor at Reid Island. We took Laura's friend Candace, loaded all our supplies, cruised south in nice flat conditions and arrived in the harbor mid afternoon.

Barb and Dave were already there but not where we expected them to be. The guest docks were full so they had placed our two boats in with the big boy toys in the fifty foot slips. While Laura and Candace were impressed by their surroundings, I quickly realized we were way out in the marina with long walks to any grassy spots for the dogs.( At the guest dock it is easiest to dinghy them over to the pool and grassy park and trail area.) It was also a long walk to the store and showers. Oh well it was a scenic walk to be sure, with yachts of every description in every size and direction. This is a huge marina, people fly in from all parts of the U.S. to use their boat for season, cruising the San Juans, Gulf Islands, and farther north.

Laura and Candace

We got settled in our slip with Dave and Barb, who are always excellent company. Just coming back from this destination or that or flying off to somewhere new, they are a fun and interesting couple. We had a couple of 'refreshments, ' ate dinner, and did the obligatory dock walk to oggle the gorgeous boats. The girls swam in the pool and then went off to oggle gorgeous not boats.

Saturday we decided to stay dockside, while Dave and Barb, Laura and Candace took the bus to Friday Harbor. Dave wanted to check out a couple of marine supply stores, while the ladies just wanted to shop. We were so proud of Barb when they returned and Dave told us how she had rescued this huge Great Dane who had been left outside a store in full sun on the boiling pavement. This poor dog was beside itself, most people would have been afraid to approach it but not our fearless animal lover Barb. She went and got it a bowl of cold water to drink and then moved him into the shade to cool down and waited for his careless owner to return. She gave him heck, the dog was suffering from heatstroke and afterwards the owner was suitably repentent. Makes me mad just to think about it. Thank goodness for people with kind hearts!

Ready for dinner at McMillans Restaurant

We were booked in that night at the restaurant and we were looking forward to the best prime rib on the westcoast. We had been there last year for John's birthday and it had been excellent. Slow roasted in a salt encrusted casement, it was fabulous. We all shared some appetizers, the scallops stuffed with crab were to die for, and awaited the prime rib. It did not disappoint is all I can say. Just delicious, and we all decided that this should become an annual event. A big storm with lots of thunder and lightning kept us at our table, but we managed to hit a lull in the rain, and walked the mile of boards back to the boats.

On Sunday we just had to check out all the stores, there is a great clothing store upstairs, and a great decorating store where I had purchased some very nice acrylic glasses that looked like crystal. Barb and I bought matching candle holders with little shells in them for our boats.

For an entertaining look at Roche Harbor read Bob Friel's magazine article. We met Bob and his photographer last year. We traded Caribbean stories for awhile, Bob used to write for Caribbean Travel & Life, which I informed him used to be my bible when we lived there, so he knew he had a fan in me. They were in the slip next to us and Bob was doing an article on the place and trying to work out an angle for the piece. He really succeeded with The Other Side of the Cleat, we enjoyed watching him cruise around the marina on The Phecal Freak, a very funny writer.

Our last day was still hot and sunny, we decided to leave and head out to Whale Watch at Lime Kiln Park. Dave and Barb had not been there and wanted to see whales as badly as we did.

Barb and Dave on Invictus, just south of Lime Kiln Park...

We had to cruise more south than before but sure enough the Orcas were there. We saw some fins and tails, Mamas with babies, there were lots of boats watching as well.

After watching and photographing them we decided to head up the east side of San Juan as we were so far south on the island it seemed quicker and was new cruising ground to us. Quite scenic, nice conditions, we scooted by Friday Harbor and seemed like we were home in no time at all. Probably an hour and 45 minutes from the tail end of San Juan to Point Roberts, not bad at all.

Invictus, just past Friday Harbor on our

way home.

We arrived in port together and unloaded. What another great weekend! Hugs Dave and Barb, it was fun.

Kalena

Just Another Lousy Sunset in Paradise...

James Bay, Prevost Island


Kalena

A Thump on the Head to...

The Painted Boat Resort and Marina in Pender Harbour for taking boater's money and offering absolutely no amenities at all.

The marina charges $1.20 per foot and there are no washroom facilities, no showers, no power, no garbage disposal and don't even think about using the swimming pool because boaters are not allowed!

Disgraceful! When so many other marina operators try so hard to offer great service and facilities and are facing hard times, this is one to avoid. Unless of course you want a really expensive place to tie your boat while feeling like a second class citizen as well!

Kalena